Historic Rescue Mission: Porter’s body rescued from K2 bottleneck

GIGLGIT: On the momentous occasion of the 70th anniversary of K2’s first ascent, a team of high-altitude porters (HAPs) made history by successfully retrieving the body of Muhammad Hassan Shigri from the Bottleneck of K2 at an astounding altitude of 8,200 meters.

The team reached the advance basecamp (ABC) at approximately 6:30 pm on Wednesday completing a rescue mission never before attempted at such extreme heights.

The “unprecedented operation” was organized by renowned mountaineer Naila Kiani, who was approached by Hassan’s family for assistance. Kiani leveraged her ongoing Mahreq clean-up project at K2 to launch this humanitarian mission, utilizing existing infrastructure to minimize costs and ensure a swift response. Despite requesting the necessary NOC only a week before the summit push, the team was assembled quickly to capitalize on a favourable weather window, making this a last-minute yet critical operation.

“The mission would not have been possible without the heroic efforts of these high-altitude climbers, the logistical support from Imran Ali, and the backing from DC Shigar Wali Ullah Fallahi,” Kiani stated. The mission was carried out on a not-for-profit basis, reducing costs to one-third of the original estimates provided to the Gilgit-Baltistan government. However, the mission still seeks sponsorship to cover the humanitarian effort’s expenses.

The team included Dilawar Sadpara, Akbar Hussein Sadpara, Zakir Hussein Sadpara, Mohammed Murad Sadpara, and Ali Mohammed Sadpara. Their successful retrieval of Hassan’s body not only aimed to provide a dignified burial but also highlighted the exceptional skills and dedication of Pakistani high-altitude workers. The mission underscored the urgent need for enhanced training, better equipment, and improved ethical standards in mountaineering.

Muhammad Hassan Shigri’s tragic death last year drew international attention. Despite numerous climbers passing by, Hassan, an inexperienced high-altitude porter, lacking proper gear with insufficient aid, the incident underscored the need for enhanced training and leadership, better equipment, and more robust structures and ethical standards in mountaineering.

“This rescue mission not only aims to provide a dignified burial for Hassan but also serves to demonstrate the exceptional skills and dedication of Pakistani high-altitude workers. It is a critical step towards addressing the gaps in mountaineering education and safety, and it sends a powerful message of the commitment to improving local standards in the industry,” reads the statement.

The conclusion of the project remains reliant upon the critical support needed from the Pakistan Army for a helicopter evacuation from the advanced base camp (ABC) to ensure the safety of the rescuers and to prevent the decomposition of the body due to extreme temperature.

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Background

Muhammad Hassan Shigri’s death on K2 last year led to many professionals in the industry questioning whether there are significant deficiencies in mountaineering protocols in Pakistan compared to international standards, and general ethics for mountaineers globally need to also be addressed.
Reports indicate that despite his critical condition climbers bypassed him without offering assistance. Hassan, who lacked the necessary experience and equipment, was attempting to support his family financially by undertaking this perilous task.

The incident not only highlighted the dire need for better training and equipment for high-altitude porters but also called attention to the ethical responsibilities and enhanced protocols of climbers and partaking expedition organisations.

It’s important to highlight that this mission was completed on the 70th anniversary of the first-ever K2 ascent. Notably, 70 years ago, the first-ever K2 summiteers left one of their members and the Pakistani climber Amir Mehdi was exposed overnight in the death zone to secure their summit. Although both survived, Mehdi was hospitalised for months and never climbed again. T

ragically, Muhammad Hassan Shigri faced a similar fate last year when he was left to die so climbers could achieve their summit.