Gasherbrum IV summit: One Russian climber rescued, another feared dead

GILGIT: Pakistan’s army successfully rescued a Russian climber who had gone missing along with another mountaineer on Gasherbrum IV, the 17th highest mountain globally and the 6th highest in Pakistan. The rescue operation was confirmed by Shiger deputy commissioner.

Shiger Deputy Commissioner Wali Ullah Falahi told HUM News English on Wednesday that two climbers, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov from Russia, were attempting an Alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum IV, which stands at an altitude of 7,925 meters in the Ghanche district. Sergey Nilov safely returned to the base camp on Tuesday, the official said.

Alpine-style climbing is characterized by minimal gear, rapid progress, and often excludes the use of fixed ropes or permanent camps on the mountain.

Falahi explained that the rescue operation was conducted by an army helicopter, which transported the mountaineer to the Combined Military Hospital (CMH) Skardu. Although he is suffering from 3rd-degree frostbite, his condition is stable, according to the official. Unfortunately, Dmitry Golovchenko’s whereabouts remain unknown, and there are fears that he may have succumbed to the harsh conditions. An operation to locate his body will continue tomorrow.

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The two climbers embarked on their mission to chart a new route on the mountain on August 18. However, they encountered severe weather conditions and lost communication with the base camp. The latest update on their progress dates back to August 30.

Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov are renowned alpinists who have received two Piolets d’Or awards for their alpine climbing achievements. They were honored in 2016 for pioneering a route on Thalay Sagar’s north face alongside Dmitry Grigoriev, and in 2012 for being the first to ascend the northeast ridge of Muztagh Tower with Alexander Lange.