Polish climbers brave winter challenges in ascent of Trango Tower

GILGIT: Polish climbers Michał Król and Maciej Kimel embarked on a quest to achieve the first winter ascent of the formidable “Nameless Tower” in the Trango Towers group, situated in the Karakoram range of Gilgit-Baltistan.

Speaking to Hum News on Thursday, Ali Asghar Porik, the head of Jasmine Tours, confirmed their current location on the mountain, indicating the start of their ambitious climb. “They are now on the mountain, prepared to confront the challenges ahead,” Porik said, underscoring the climbers’ readiness and determination.

This marks the climbers’ second attempt to conquer one of the most challenging winter routes of the towers. Their initial endeavour in 2022, alongside fellow climber Janusz Gołąb, was hindered by severe weather and avalanches, forcing them to retreat from an altitude of 5,750 meters.

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While there are at least eight separate routes to the summit, Król and Kimel have opted to follow the British-designed route, established in 1976 by a team led by Martin Boysen and consisting of Joe Brown, Malcolm Howells, and Mo Anthoine.

The British-designed route is famous for its steep 1,100-meter ascent through a complex system of cracks on the south wall of the Nameless Tower. It is graded VI 5.10 A2, a system of grading climbing difficulty of mountains keeping in account ice, rock and other hurdles during mountaineering.

In preparation for their second climb, Król and Kimel refined their approach by choosing lightweight portaledges and a more streamlined selection of gear. This adjustment aims to help make the ascent more efficient and will enable them to adjust their sleeping arrangements based on daily progress.

The Trango Towers are a group of granite spires situated on the Trango Glacier in the Karakoram. They are famous for their stunning beauty and challenging climbing routes.

The Trango Nameless Tower among them is one of the world’s most daunting climbs. It stands over 6,239 meters high and considered the slimmest and most symmetrical of the Trango tower group. Despite its popularity among climbers, the Nameless Tower has never been ascended in winter.