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Two all-women teams set to make history on K2 next month


K2 summit

GILGIT: Two all-women climber teams are ready to make history on K2, the world’s second-highest peak, next month to mark the platinum jubilee of the first ascent of the 8,611-meter-high mountain.

These pioneering expeditions not only celebrate 70 years since K2’s first successful climb but also highlight the growing role of women in the challenging field of mountaineering.

K2, standing at 8,611 metres, is the second-highest peak in the world and is renowned for its extreme difficulty and perilous conditions, earning it the nickname “Savage Mountain.”

The first successful summit was achieved in 1954 by an Italian team led by Ardito Desio. Despite its formidable challenges, over 400 climbers have reached its peak.

The first winter ascent was made in January 2021 by a team of Nepali climbers, marking a historic milestone in mountaineering history.

An Italy-Pakistan all-woman team will attempt to summit the world’s second-highest peak, K2, while conducting scientific research on the glaciers to understand the impacts of climate change and prepare for a future Ice Memory mission on the Godwin-Austen glacier next month.

The nine-member team consisting of 8 climbers, four each from Pakistan and Italy and one Italian researcher will reach the base camp on June 29 for mountaineering activities and acclimatization, aims to summit K2 in the second half of July.

Led by Agostino Da Polenza, with Saima Baig appointed as the Pakistani team leader, the expedition embodies the shared passion for adventure and the pursuit of excellence that transcends borders.

The team consists of Federica Mingolla, Silvia Loreggian, Anna Torretta, Cristina Piolini, Samina Baig, Amina Bano, Nadeema Sahar, Samana Rahim, and Dr. Lorenza Pratali.

The expedition, part of the K2-70 project celebrating the 70th anniversary of K2’s first ascent, combines mountaineering prowess with cutting-edge scientific research.

According to a statement issued by the Ca’ Foscari University of Venice, the mission, organised by the Institute of Polar Sciences and Ca’ Foscari University of Venice, will dedicate 10 days to field research before summiting the peak.

The research will take place in an area of approximately 20 kilometers between 5,500 and 6,000 meters above sea level.

Also read: Afghan mountaineer’s body retrieved in K2 search operation

The statement said the team will extract ice cores from the glacier, measure temperatures, and collect snow samples to detect contaminants. This research is crucial for assessing the feasibility of deep drilling in the region, previously only attempted on the Guliya glacier in Tibet.The expedition not only honors the legacy of the 1954 K2 ascent led by Ardito Desio but also underscores the urgent need to study and protect these vital glacial environments.

The project is supported by various organisations, including the environmental protection agency of Gilgit-Baltistan, the Ca’ Foscari University Foundation, and the Italian Alpine Club. As glaciers continue to shrink, this mission highlights the critical importance of understanding the changing climate and the need for sustainable environmental policies.

The research findings will contribute significantly to our knowledge of glacial dynamics and climate history, providing valuable insights for future conservation efforts.

In a social media post, ace climber Samina Baig said the project K2 holds deep significance for her as it symbolises the historical bonds between Italy, K2, and Pakistan, especially since the pioneering ascent in 1954 by Italian climbers.

“This monumental journey isn’t just about personal growth; it’s about giving back to the team. My role goes beyond athletic prowess; it involves sharing knowledge, building teamwork, and inspiring others, ensuring our success and enhancing everyone’s K2 experience,” she said.

Separately, another all-woman team from Pakistan will also attempt to summit K2.

This six-member expedition includes Anum Uzair from Lahore, Shama Baqir and Bibi Sultana from Shimshal, Afzoom from Gulmit of Hunza, and sisters Siddiqa Hanif and Amina Hanif from Ghanche.

Members of the expedition team completed their one-week climbing training at Sadpara Mountaineering School on Friday. This will be the first time when any all-women climbers from Pakistan will attempt a summit. All the supporting staff and porters are also from Pakistan.

The team will be led by renowned Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan, the first Pakistani to summit 13 eight-thousander peaks in the world, 11 of which he summited without oxygen. The first women’s expedition for K2 was organised by the Force Command of Northern Areas (FCNA). According to an FCNA statement, Pakistan’s challenging peaks offer immense opportunities for young women athletes in mountaineering, though they often face significant barriers due to insufficient resources. This empowering initiative by the FCNA aims to promote gender equality in this demanding sport.

“I am honoured to be a part of this historical event. Me and my team are hopeful to open doors for other women and will be aiming summit with this thought that we women can move mountains when work together as a force,” Anum Uzair said in a social media post.

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