Five climbers achieve season’s first summit of Nanga Parbat

GILGIT: Five international climbers from different nations have successfully scaled Nanga Parbat (8,125 metres), marking the first summit of any peak in Pakistan this season, a tour operator confirmed on Tuesday.

Czech climbers Marek Novotny and Ondra Hlasny achieved the first summits from the normal route on the Diamir side, while German climber David Johannes Goettler, alongside French skiers Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein, reached the top from the Rupal side of the peak, known as ‘Killer Mountain’.

Historic Nanga Parbat climb and fly for David Göttler

German Alpinist David Göttler has successfully completed an ‘Alpine style’ ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m) via the infamous Rupal Face and descended the mountain by paraglider. https://t.co/OFrBv2rlsB pic.twitter.com/NZLMRPklKx

— Climber Magazine (@climbermagazine) July 1, 2025

Ghulam Muhammad, General Manager of Blue Sky Treks and Tours — the organisers for the Czech climbers — confirmed to HUM News English that their clients reached the summit of the ninth-highest mountain on Earth on June 26 at 12 pm. He added that they had successfully descended and were now en route back to home.

Goettler, along with his companions Langenstein and Duperier, summited the peak on June 24 via the Schell route, first established by Hanns Schell and his team in 1976 on the Rupal face of the mountain. While Goettler opted for a paragliding descent, the Frenchmen skied from the summit, achieving two significant feats – the first descent on skis from the summit and the first descent on skis from this particular slope.

Medical dispensary established at Urdukas Camp

Meanwhile, a free medical dispensary has been established at the Urdukas Camp near the Baltoro Glacier, an essential stop on the trekking route to K2. The dispensary, alongside the launch of first aid training for high-altitude guides, provides vital medical support to climbers, porters, and support staff.

In a statement, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) Vice President Karrar Haidri expressed gratitude to ACP President Major General Irfan Arshad for ensuring the provision of two fully equipped medical igloos, a steady supply of monthly medical provisions, and essential training sessions in collaboration with CMH Skardu.

“The idea for this initiative was originally inspired by Naila Kiani, the first Pakistani woman to summit 12 peaks above 8,000 metres. Having spent time in the harsh environment around K2, she witnessed the immense challenges faced by porters and climbers due to the lack of basic medical support. Moved by their suffering, Naila took it upon herself to be a catalyst for change,” the statement read.

Naila has committed to funding the salary of a qualified nurse stationed at the dispensary and will continue to support its ongoing operational costs.

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“As Vice President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, I have pledged to provide a trained nurse for a second dispensary, which is currently being planned for Concordia, another critical point along the Baltoro Glacier frequented by trekkers and mountaineers,” Haidri added.

He further stated that Naila Kiani also aims to introduce basic high-altitude safety training and English language courses for porters, empowering them with knowledge and communication skills to improve their working conditions and ensure their long-term well-being.

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“We encourage all trekkers and climbers passing through the region to visit the dispensary, take a moment to engage with the medical team, share your feedback, and help raise awareness. Your encouragement means the world to everyone involved in this life-saving effort,” Haidri added.

The ACP Vice President appealed to all members of the mountaineering and trekking community to support and collaborate with the Naurang Foundation in this vital mission to safeguard the lives and health of the mountain heroes.