Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to scale 11 8000-metre peaks without O2 support

GILGIT: Ace mountaineer Sirbaz Khan achieved yet another milestone on Tuesday when he scaled Mount Everest in Nepal, the tallest peak in the world, without using supplementary oxygen.

With this feat, the climber became the first and only Pakistani to climb 11 peaks over 8,000 meters without using oxygen support. He is now the second Pakistani mountaineer, after Sajid Sadpara, to summit the 8,849-meter peak without supplementary O2. He has also climbed 13 of the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters.

Sirbaz had previously summited Mount Everest using bottled oxygen in 2021, but this time, he chose not to use supplementary O2. He reached the top of the mountain on Tuesday around 12:30 PST.

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Naila Kiani, who recently became the first Pakistani woman to scale the fifth highest peak in the world, congratulated Sirbaz for climbing Everest without supplemental oxygen and a personal Sherpa.

“Sirbaz is also the only Pakistani to climb Everest twice. Climbing Everest without oxygen is a true test of human grit. Congratulations, Ustad,” she added.

Khan has only Shishapangma left to accomplish his dream of becoming the first Pakistani to climb all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in the world. Earlier this year, Sirbaz had to abandon the plan to summit Shishapangma after Chinese authorities refused to open the mountain for climbing this season. This year, the mountaineer from Aliabad, Hunza, was awarded the Pride of Performance in the field of sports for his outstanding achievements.