Unexpected assistance: a tale of diplomatic ties between India and Pakistan

NEW DELHI/LAHORE: Diplomatic relations between India and Pakistan have always been a little tricky to explore, as much for the governments as for the citizens of the neighbouring countries.

An anecdote recently shared by the Indian publication ‘The Print’ shares the experiences of a former Indian diplomat Ruchi Ghanashyam, stationed in Pakistan from 1997 to 2000. This story, from a book by Ghanashyam, titled “An Indian Woman in Islamabad” is a wholesome reminder of how the people of both countries often find themselves at the paradoxical nature of bilateral ties.

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During her tenure, Ghanashyam and her family frequently navigated the challenges of living in a country where diplomatic sensitivities loomed large. While they resided in the national capital Islamabad, this anecdote comes from Lahore, the provincial capital of Punjab. On one occasion in Lahore, the family decided to indulge in a pizza craving at Pizza Hut, which did not have a branch in Islamabad.

Armed with directions but lacking GPS, they soon found themselves hopelessly lost, driving in circles. The situation took a surprising turn when the security agents, assigned to discreetly follow them, approached their car and asked in a mix of frustration and concern, “Sir, aapko jaana kahan hai?” (Sir, where do you want to go?). In an ironic twist, the agents who were supposed to keep a watchful eye on the diplomat ended up guiding the family to the restaurant.

This peculiar blend of surveillance and assistance became a recurring theme during their stay. In Islamabad, one evening, the family again lost their way, only to be silently and effectively escorted to their destination by the agents trailing them. While the constant presence of these agents might have been seen as an intrusion, there were moments when their assistance proved invaluable.

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Karachi presented yet another instance of this unique relationship. Ghanashyam’s popularity with the business community in Karachi, particularly among the Bohra Muslims with roots in Mumbai and Gujarat, highlighted the deep cultural connections that persist despite political divisions.

The family had carried a large carton of gifts for friends in Karachi but underestimated the generosity they would encounter in the form of ‘return gifts’ for families residing in India. As their departure approached, they found themselves in desperate need of an additional bag to carry all those gifts.

Navigating through Karachi’s bustling traffic to reach a baggage shop, they were stopped at a one-way lane by a traffic policeman. The driver, aware of the tight schedule, persistently honked until the officer, irritated, approached to enforce the rules. However, upon spotting the car filled with agents following them, the officer’s demeanour changed instantly. He halted the oncoming traffic and cleared the way, ensuring the family could proceed without delay. Without this unexpected intervention, they might have missed their flight.

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These anecdotes offer a fascinating window into the daily realities of diplomacy between India and Pakistan, where the personal often intersects with the political in unpredictable ways. Despite the overarching tensions, moments of shared humanity and cultural connections occasionally shine through, reminding us of the complex, multifaceted nature of Indo-Pak relations.